Abstract
Ceramides (Cer) are essential components of the skin permeability barrier. To probe the role of Cer polar head groups involved in the interfacial hydrogen bonding, the N-lignoceroyl sphingosine polar head was modified by removing the hydroxyls in C-1 (1-deoxy-Cer) or C-3 positions (3-deoxy-Cer) and by N-methylation of amide group (N-Me-Cer).
Multilamellar skin lipid models were prepared as equimolar mixtures of Cer, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, with 5 wt% cholesteryl sulfate. In the 1-deoxy-Cer-based models, the lipid species were separated into highly ordered domains (as found by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy) resulting in similar water loss but 4-5-fold higher permeability to model substances compared to control with natural Cer.
In contrast, 3-deoxy-Cer did not change lipid chain order but promoted the formation of a well-organized structure with a 10.8 nm repeat period. Yet both lipid models comprising deoxy-Cer had similar permeabilities to all markers.
N-Methylation of Cer decreased lipid chain order, led to phase separation, and improved cholesterol miscibility in the lipid membranes, resulting in 3-fold increased water loss and 10-fold increased permeability to model compounds compared to control. Thus, the C-1 and C-3 hydroxyls and amide group, which are common to all Cer subclasses, considerably affect lipid miscibility and chain order, formation of periodical nanostructures, and permeability of the skin barrier lipid models.